Beneath the pristine blue waters of the southern seas of the Orient lies a majestic treasure exuding an iridescent splendor – The Golden South Sea Pearl. From the Philippines to the Universe, this luminous gem, a pride of the archipelago, now takes center stage as the crowning glory of the “Lumière de l’Infini,” the new crown of the prestigious Miss Universe beauty pageant. Designed by Jewelmer, a Filipino Jewelry company, the crown was unveiled last November 13, 2024, in Mexico City, Mexico, in the pageant’s preliminary gala. The Light of Infinity shines with a luminous light of pride but also creates shadows that speak of pain. Beyond the crown’s brilliance, controversy sparked among progressive individuals and Indigenous rights advocates, who criticize the ethical implications tied to its creation, for no amount of luster could mask the blood stains on the crown.
Miss Universe is an annual beauty pageant where contenders worldwide gather on an international stage in a competition of beauty, grace, and intellect. The most recent edition, held in Mexico City, saw over 130 women from around the world competing for the title. Miss Universe was founded in 1952 by a Californian clothing company, Pacific Knitting Mills, later renamed Catalina Swimwear, initially to promote their products. The United States is the most successful country in the 73-year pageant run, with nine winners to date. Since its inception, the brand has seen multiple changes in leadership. From early 2000’ to 2014, the brand was owned by President-Elect Donald Trump. The brand is currently owned by JKN Global Group. Apart from the winners and management, the crowns become a yearly talk-of-town. Some of the most famous beauty pageant crowns include the Akoya Pearl studded “Mikomoto Crown” and “Power of Unity Crown” by Thai Jewelry brand Mouwad.
The “Lumière de l’Infini” (Light of Infinity) is the newest addition to the pageant’s collection of historic crowns. It is valued at $5,000,000 and designed by Jewelmer, a Filipino Jewelry Company. Filipino artisans handcrafted it using traditional techniques practiced in Palace Vendome in France, the company revealed in an Instagram post. The crown is the first of the pageant to be made in the Philippines. The crowning glory of the crown is the locally sourced Golden South Sea Pearl, with precisely 23 pearls adorning it. “Caressed by the sun’s rays, the sea generously offers us a magical gift – the rare golden South Sea pearl,” Jewelmer wrote in an Instagram post. The crown’s design is meant to emanate the beauty of the ocean – the seafoam meeting the shore and the air blowing on the waves and pays homage to life and its universal elements. Miss Universe Organization’s (MUO) current president, Raul Rocha, described it as “the most beautiful [crown] in the history of Miss Universe”.
In a 1996 proclamation by the Philippines’ former president, Fidel V. Ramos, the South Sea pearl was hailed as the country’s national gem. According to Jewelmer, the Golden South Sea pearl is “a miracle created in 377 steps over 5 years”. The company is one of the successful pioneers in cultivating Gold South Sea pearls. The pearls are grown from the gold-lipped Pinctada Maxima pearl oyster. The perfection of this process took years of research and biotechnology. Jewelmer describes it as “part science and part miracle.” Pearl farming is a sustainable economic activity that enriches nature rather than destroys it. The industry meets the socially, environmentally, and economically sustainable standards. The Pearl Farming industry has become ingrained in the livelihood of many indigenous communities living in coastal areas, perfecting the art of harvesting and cultivation. This industry has much potential, and further developments could be made to boost it, especially for coastal communities. It is one of the Philippines’ primary industries, gaining a 15 million dollar revenue in 2015. Pearl exportation has also become the 8th top dollar earner for the country. However, this does not come without its drawbacks. This economic benefit becomes a point of interest to big corporations. The Pearl farming industry has been infamous for being linked to horrors of aggression and displacement.
Encroachment of ancestral lands and waters has been a rampant issue in this industry. Many indigenous and coastal communities have been facing displacement due to corporate aggression from large companies. This move is masked as a profitable Marine Protected Area, citing environmental protection as a reason for protected boundaries that deny community access. Indigenous and coastal communities are either denied or limited access to these waters. This issue undermines people’s connection to their ancestral water, destroying their identity and heritage. It also limits their ability to engage in livelihood practices. This is the very issue with “Lumière de l’Infini” crowning glory.
While the crown sparkles with its beauty, its origin carries a story of oppression. The launch of the crown has sparked outrage from locals of Bugsuk Island in Palawan, Philippines. In a press release titled “The Pearls of our Oppression in the Miss Universe Crown: The Battle for Land, Life, and Justice against Corporate Aggression and Land Grabbing”, the “Balik Bugsuk Movements” revealed that behind the luster of Jewelmer’s south sea pearl are the bloodstains of forced displacement, harassment, and systematic exclusion. The group claims that the Malbog, Palaw’an, and Cagayancillo Indigenous communities have been facing these perils since 1970. With this, Indigenous groups have labeled the pearls of the crown as “Blood Pearls.” Progressive movements have also joined the call for Justice, Dignity, and rights to ancestral waters. People stand in opposition to Industrial oppression against these Indigenous communities. Land reclamation advocates believe that the issue with the “Light of Infinity” crown goes beyond pearls, for the beauty of the crown contradicts the tragic fate of the Indigenous people who are denied their heritage and territory.
The encroachment issues and pearl farming have been a long-standing affair in the archipelagic country. The displacement of the Bugsuk Island natives began in 1974 under the dictatorship of Ferdinand Marcos Sr. to pave the way for commercialization and favor the personal interest of the late dictator’s cronies. The “Balik Bugsuk Movements” revealed in the press statement that Jewelmer’s co-founder is the sibling of one of Marcos Sr’s cronies, Eduardo “Danding’ Cojuanco. Since 1980, the company has expanded its pearl farming operations in Palawan, causing conflicts between residents and Indigenous people. This commercialization came with the restriction of vital marine resources for the people’s livelihood and displacement that often came with violence and intimidation. The progressive group has called on the Philippines’ current president and son of the late dictator to hear their battle cries. They demanded (1) the reversal of the decision of the Department of Agrarian Reform and reinstate the 10,821 hectares of ancestral land in the Notice of Coverage that has been taken away from its rightful Indigenous stewards, (2) the swift distribution of the 56,000 hectares of ancestral lands and waters to the Indigenous communities of Palawan, ensuring access and stewardship over the resources, (3) the removal or armed guards from the 38-hectare area of Mariahangin Island, allowing Indigenous communities to reclaim their land, (4) legal protection and reparations for the disruptions caused to ancestral lands and livelihood and (5) a comprehensive investigation into the abuses against the Indigenous communities particularly recent violence against the Bugsuk community under government-sanctioned operations. Randy Cirio of the “Pambansang Kilusan ng mga Samahang Magsasaka” (PAKISAMA) emphasized: “This is not just about the land; it is about Justice and righting a historic wrong. We urge every Filipino to join this fight…”.
Looking sharply into the beauty of the crown and its pearls will reveal cracks that speak of more than denial of waters but of corporate oppression and denial of rights and heritage. Contradictory to the essence of the crown, each pearl speaks a story of horror and oppression. Beauty pageants have evolved from promotional campaigns to socially relevant organizations that support various charities and advocacy, HIV awareness, and women’s empowerment, to name a few. The newest Miss Universe beauty pageant winner, Victoria Kajaer Theilvig of Denmark, and the first winner to wear the controversial crown, has been urged to stand against all forms of corporate harassment. Progressive movements call on her to use her voice and platform to fight for ancestral land reclamations and shed light on these issues facing Indigenous people.
From the Philippines to the Universe, the beauty of the archipelago’s Golden South Sea pearl has become an illuminating light of infinity, embodying the complex intersection of beauty, culture, and controversy. The beauty is a contradicting stark reminder of the painful history of displacement and exploitation faced by Indigenous communities in Palawan. Behind the crown’s dazzling facade are bloodstains kept away from public view. What lies in each intricate detail are stories of oppression, corporate aggression, and land grabbing. This story goes beyond the crown and the pageant; it transcends these and speaks to the heart of human dignity. As the Miss Universe Pageant continues to be relevant, it is crucial to realize that the crown is more than a symbol of victory in a beauty pageant but, more importantly, a symbol of integral moral values that celebrate Justice, Equality, Cultural preservation, and protection of Heritage. True beauty lies not in the grandeur of crowns and gowns but in the sincerity of actions towards a greater purpose. The true light of Infinity is far beyond glistening pearls. However, it is the resilience of those who have suffered, the justice that still awaits their rightful reclamation, and true beauty that radiates from the heart of humanity.
